Sister Sizing

Let’s get the hard part over first-sister sizing. It seems easy at first. Just look at the diagonal boxes on the chart. You go up a band, and down a cup or vice versa. When you think harder about it, it starts to make less sense. Why does the band go down 2 inches but the cup only changes one size? This is because the cup size isn’t a measure of the volume of your breast tissue, but a measurement of the difference between your band size and the fullest part of your chest. Thus the band size changing on two people with the same tissue volume in the cup would yeild two different cup sizes.

The diagonal boxes on the chart show which band/cup combinations have the same breast tissue volume. So a 30F and a 32E both have have the same volume. The picture below is a crude representation of how the same cup volume looks on different band sizes.

The picture below represents how in the same band size, the cup volume grows.

The next image shows how the same cup size is actually different tissue volume in each band size.

Thus, someone with a 36″ band and a 6 inch difference between their underbust and bust measurements would be a 36F. If they only have a pattern that is band sizes 28-40 and cup sizes A-E, it would seem that they are out of the range. But if they print off the 38E pattern pieces and take an inch away from the band then they will have made that pattern a 36″ band. However, now the cups aren’t an E anymore because the band is now smaller. With that one change the pattern has been converted into a 36F.

You can go the opposite way as well! For example, when using this Fenway pattern by Orange Lingerie I know that I’m a 40DD, but I didn’t want to buy the smaller pattern size set for the Marlborough pattern because I already had the larger size set, which includes a 38DDD. By printing that and adding an inch to the band I turned the whole pattern into a 40DD! LIKE MAGIC! I plan to make it up this Saturday in class, so stay tuned for the results!

If you want to see sister sizing in action, check out my “Bra Adjustment” highlight on Instagram! You can watch me “um” and “like” my way through this pattern adjustment I made on the Marlborough Bra by Orange Lingerie.

Hi, I’m Shelby!

Missouri Botanical Garden in St. Louis

Let’s learn how to blog!

I got my love of sewing and love of cats from my grandma! This is us with her cat, Maxwell, celebrating his birthday, because duh!
Here’s a poor resolution photo of a costume I made back in a high school costuming class. I am in the orange and green playing Mrs. Bennett in Pride and Prejudice, which is, like, a little too on the nose for me…
The first bra and underpants I ever made!
I have switched to making all my own clothes now. It really slows me down on consuming and keeps me from buying stuff I’ll never wear just because it’s inexpensive at the thrift store.
I got a Cricut a couple of years ago, so nothing keeps me from making my own graphic tee’s! This whole outfit is me-made, Plantain Tee from Deer and Doe, Moxi Shorts from Greenstyle Creations.
I didn’t realize that using quilting cotton for every garment I make was not the best choice until I started listening to Love To Sew. I’m from a very small town, so quilt shops were all we had, so every garment I had made the last 15 or so years was made with quilting cotton. I still like the feel of the structure, even if it’s not everybody’s cup of tea.

I thought my very first blog ever should be a little introduction about me! I’m definitely learning as I go when it comes to websites and blogs, so I appreciate you being on the journey with me. I will try not to end every sentence with an exclamation point, but no promises.

I learned how to sew from my amazing grandmother and my mom way back when I was 9 and have been sewing on and off ever since. I come from a small town, and I’ve been doing theatre since I was 7 (shout out to all the girl Tiny Tims out there!), so there was an expectation that actors helped with tech from the beginning! I knew how to sew, so I always offered to help with costuming. For me it was like the “easy” way out because I’d much rather be at a sewing machine than painting! It worked out well enough, because in college, I was fortunate enough to do my work study in my theatre’s costume shop and learned many skills, especially in historical costuming, as we did A Christmas Carol EVERY year. Fun Fact! I’ve been in a version of that show 7 times!

A few years ago, I got more into sustainability and reducing my consumption to help save the planet. I decided I would no longer buy new garments, choosing instead to get them from resale shops or clothing swaps (hint, plan this with your friends, it’s a BLAST!). I excluded underwear and leggings from this new years resolution because I didn’t realize at the time there was a more sustainable option that didn’t involve me wearing people’s old underwear! MAKING THEM!

I helped with costumes while performing in another show, Mamma Mia, at a local theatre and started listening to the Love To Sew podcast (highly recommend). I was inspired to add making clothes to the list of ways to add garments to my wardrobe, as I would be able to use all the small scraps up, unlike in the ready-to-wear industry, where it all goes to a landfill if it’s not used. I quickly made it to the episode with Emerald Erin: huh you can make undies and LIGHTBULB OH MY GOSH you can MAKE??? BRAS???? Why did I not think I could do that!

Armed with this new knowledge, I set out to find a class and learn how to do this… except… uhhh… there aren’t any where I live. The closest one I could find was three hours away on weekdays. I just couldn’t swing it. Ok. Hopes dashed, I decide I’ll just watch some YouTube videos to tide me over until I can take some vacation and stay with a friend for a week and take the classes. I stumbled upon LizSews pretty fast. I watched every video she made and was like… “Maybe I can do this on my own…” I got the Cloth Habit Watson Pattern and found some supplies at Joann Fabrics (cannot recommend, just get a kit, it will be a much better experience). I followed the LizSews tutorial and OH MY GOSH I MADE A BRA!?!? It was not perfect, but honestly, I still wear it today! I was HOOKED! No longer will I toil away at Unnamed Bra Store, crying in the dressing room because I have to choose between quad boob and gaping cups! It was then I decided I wanted to spread this joy to the world! Well, at least St. Louis!

It’s been two years and between working a day job (I’m an accountant) and living in an historic pandemic, I finally was able to open Cherries on Top! Not quite my dream business yet, as I want to offer bra kits and consistent classes, but one step at a time right now! And I’m getting closer every day.

In the meantime, I’m doing what I can in the middle of a once in a life time event. And what I can do is offer beautiful, comfortable bras and undergarments to the St. Louis area! And cuddle my many many cats!